Riad Amina

Forty paces off Sidi Ben Sliman's derb tangle, Riad Amina keeps a restored courtyard house behind an unmarked wooden door, its tiled fountain and citrus tree shading the ground-floor salon from the medina's midday heat.

Rooms open onto the courtyard gallery rather than a corridor, each with hand-tadelakt walls and a different carved cedar ceiling. Breakfast is taken on the roof terrace, with the Koutoubia minaret visible above the rooftops to the south.

Jemaa el-Fna lies an eight-minute walk through the souks, making this a quiet base for travellers who want the medina's energy without sleeping inside it.