Riad Beldi

Sixteen derbs deep in the Zaouia Abbassia quarter, Riad Beldi occupies a restored courtyard house on derb Saba, its rooms wrapped around a tiled patio away from medina street noise. Rooftop terrace seating overlooks neighbouring satellite dishes and the odd stork nest rather than a manicured view.

Breakfast is taken by the courtyard fountain, msemen and amlou included, no buffet line. Staff arrange taxi pickup to the entrance since GPS rarely finds the door directly.

Jemaa el-Fna lies a fifteen-minute walk through narrow lanes, making this a base for travellers who want the old city without the tourist-strip pricing.