Dar Yamina Andalusi

Eight rooms wrap a tiled riad courtyard on Derb Khayroun in Chefchaouen's Rif el Andalous quarter, tucked among the blue-washed lanes just below the old kasbah walls. Dar Yamina Andalusi keeps its original cedar ceilings and horseshoe archways, with a rooftop terrace looking over the medina toward the Rif mountains.

Breakfast is served on that terrace, msemen and olive oil from a nearby cooperative rather than a buffet spread. The riad suits travelers who want to walk everywhere: the main square, Ras el Maa waterfall, and the tanneries are all within ten minutes on foot, though cars must park outside the medina gates.