Puerta Azul

Twelve rooms wrap a tiled riad courtyard just off Avenue Maghreb Arabe, a five-minute walk below Chefchaouen's blue-washed medina and the Kasbah museum. Each room takes its palette from the surrounding walls, with hand-stenciled plasterwork and small arched windows rather than uniform decor.

Breakfast is served on the roof terrace, facing the Rif mountains rather than the medina's rooftops. Staff arrange guided walks to the Ras el-Ma waterfall, a twenty-minute climb north of town, avoiding the midday tour groups that crowd the main square.